ANNE FRANK PROJECT IN RWANDA
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Anne-Sophie Hellman

Travel Days (Part 1)

6/18/2023

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Around three o’clock on the afternoon of June 16, just after taking my first anti-malaria pill, I received a notification from our Whatsapp group chat that our 6 AM flight from Buffalo Niagara International Airport to John F. Kennedy International Airport was canceled. Thankfully, Drew and Jonise were able to find a last-minute solution–a bus ride that would transport us from Buffalo State University to JFK in time for our 1:45 PM flight to Kenya. My mom and I arrived at Cleveland Circle, our group’s new meeting place, by 1:00 AM. We were the first car to arrive, so we parked in the adjoining parking lot and waited until everyone’s cars started streaming in. I unpacked my luggage: two suitcases, one containing school supplies for Urukundo Learning Center and a personal suitcase, as well as a carry-on backpack. Our group–those leaving from Buffalo–stood on the sidewalk and talked to each other. At 3 AM, the bus arrived to pick us up. We loaded our suitcases in the trunk and in the backseat of the bus to make room. Makka and I sat next to each other. She showed me her crocheting project, which is amazing! I thought this bus ride would be a great opportunity to sleep on the way to New York City, but I was quickly proven wrong. The road was bumpy as we hurtled toward our destination. Additionally, there were no restrooms available on campus, so we all had to wait until 6:30 AM for our first rest stop. My favorite part of road trips is scenery and atmosphere. At night, there was a heavy, eerie fog. In the early morning, the fog cast a glowing silhouette over the sun. I enjoyed watching the lush green mountains pass us by. Our driver played “California Dreamin’” and “Crimson and Clover,” which I enjoyed listening to. We arrived at JFK at 11 AM on June 17. After I checked in my luggage, it was time to face the TSA–placing my backpack, laptop, hoodie, and shoes in plastic bins and stepping through the body scanners. My backpack was set aside for checking, but thankfully nothing was taken out. As a group, we made our way to our gate. One of my close friends recommended I check out the McDonald’s at JFK because of how good it is, but unfortunately the line was too long for me to go! I ordered a burrito bowl, a banana, a muffin, and a water bottle from two food outlets to bring on the long plane ride because I really, really dislike airplane food. On the plane, Makka and I were pleasantly surprised to discover we were assigned to sit next to each other again. After several hours on the plane, I was reminded of how claustrophobic it can be. Our flight was around thirteen hours–the longest continuous flight I’ve ever been on–but it felt longer. I took several naps during the flight. Just when I would fall asleep, I would wake up again. I’m glad I brought my liquid IV pouches because, after a while, I started to feel a bit dehydrated. When we landed in Nairobi, I joined everyone in the lounge. I looked out of the large glass windows to a view of the tarmac, and in the distance, birds. It looked like they were dancing–swooping and soaring in sync. I ordered a strawberry milkshake and fries at the food courts. Then we boarded the last leg of our journey! I sat next to Rachel on the plane. The plane’s older model made me feel nostalgic of when I would fly between Washington, D.C. and Buffalo as a child (manual shades on the windows). During the flight, I kept nodding in and out of sleep. When we landed, Rachel and I jumped on one of the buses headed to the customs office. Going through customs and buying visas is a fast-paced and nerve-wracking process. I fumbled with my answers when the passport officer asked me questions, but I ultimately got approved and caught up with the others. I had heard horror stories about previous delegations losing their luggage, but thankfully my luggage came through! After my suitcase for Urukundo was approved, I joined the others outside to load our luggage onto two separate buses. We boarded our bus and made our way through Kigali at night. It was spectacular! The rolling hills of the city were outlined by lights; we drove through a fragrant, tree-lined street; and I watched as motorcycle taxis wearing red helmets passed us by. We arrived at St. Paul’s hotel and were given our room assignments—Makka and I were assigned to the C wing. We ate dinner at the hotel’s buffet area and I put a little of everything on my plate. Unfortunately, the stale plane air and stress of traveling with little sleep gave me a sore throat. When Makka and I returned to our room, I took a painkiller. Makka helped me assemble my mosquito net over my bed, and then we turned off the lights at 10 PM. I had some trouble falling asleep initially. I also felt a twinge of homesickness for my friends and family in the U.S. I haven’t gone without seeing my family for a week since my school trip to the Shenandoah Valley in fourth grade. I steadied my mind, and eventually drifted off to sleep.
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    My name is Anne-Sophie Hellman and I am a junior at Buffalo State University majoring in History. I was born and raised in Washington, D.C., before moving to Buffalo, New York, in 2015. I am a passionate advocate for the prevention and education of genocides and mass atrocities. Currently, I am an intern for the Anne Frank Project, where I am researching and writing a guidebook for secondary school educators to teach their students about twentieth and twenty-first century genocides and mass atrocities. I am also a member of the United States Action Committee at STAND: The Student-led Movement to End Mass Atrocities. I chose this program because I want to gain a better understanding of the 1994 Genocide Against the Tutsi in Rwanda. By traveling to Rwanda during Kwibuka 29, I hope to bear witness to the testimonies of survivors, perpetrators, and their descendants, as well as sites of conscience, such as museums and memorials. I wish to learn more about the gacaca court system, reconciliation villages, and Peace and Values education. While visiting Rwanda, I am interested in exploring topics of forgiveness, reconciliation, kinesthetic learning, public memory, and oral history. Additionally, I look forward to immersing myself in Rwanda’s food, language, and scenery. 

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